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Watch salmon run, connect to nature and community in Alberni Valley
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Port Alberni, BC — The trail to the salmon ladder viewing area at Stamp Falls in the Alberni Valley winds through vibrant autumn colours, offering spell-binding views of the river. Standing above the falls, the torrent surges downstream. The sound of rushing water heightens our anticipation. Suddenly, we spot our first salmon.
The fall salmon run has commenced here in the Alberni Valley, and watching these salmon take their annual journey, I find myself reflecting on the life journeys we all take. As someone relatively new to Vancouver Island, my experience with Port Alberni up until now had mostly been limited to quick stops on surf trips to Tofino.
Slowing down, taking time to witness a natural spectacle and immerse in the community here in the Alberni Valley was a chance to take my own leap out of the current.
WATCH > see the salmon run, connect to community on a Port Alberni visit
For those wanting to experience the salmon run in Port Alberni, the window for a visit is relatively short, spanning from mid-September to mid-October; so the time to go is now.
From town to Stamp Falls is a short drive through picturesque fall forests to Stamp River Provincial Park. There are several viewing spots along the river, but the best vantage point is above the rushing falls, where safety railings are in place for good reason.
Watching that first fish attempting to scale the salmon ladder, driven by the swollen river and their instinct to procreate, enraptured us all. Then another. And another.
A constant leaping, sometimes clearing the flow, and sometimes being dragged back down, only to try again.
Several varieties of salmon swim up the Stamp River each fall on the annual salmon run.
"Salmon are the lifeblood of the people. We use it for everything," says Les Sam, who oversees the Fisheries Portfolio for the Tseshaht Council, of the local Tseshaht First Nation.
These mature fish had dedicated their lives to this moment, embarking on an epic journey to return to their birthplace after traveling thousands of kilometers from Alaska.
Come for the salmon run, experience fall's awe in the Alberni Valley
The river hosts Sockeye, Chinook, and Coho Salmon, with the best times to witness their jumps being dawn and dusk. However, fish can be seen leaping all day
And if you're as fortunate as we were, you might even catch a glimpse of bears fattening up for winter.
A black bear fishes for salmon along the Stamp River, in the Alberni Valley.
Earlier that morning, Jenna and Eric had already seen the role salmon plays in the local food cycle at the Port Alberni Farmers Market.
As they walked they saw stalls brimming with local produce, from honey and vegetables to wool and even locally grown willow, showcasing the area's abundant nature. Including, of course, salmon.
Photo:
Tom Powell
Producers from across the Alberni Valley bring their fresh fruit and veg to the farmers' market at Harbour Quay.
"It's in our freezers, our jars," says Sam. "We sell a lot of it commercially, and it feeds our families and our community, generating significant revenue for the local economy."
He continued, educating me on the practices of his people and the catch monitoring and guardianship over these vital fish stocks and land that are so fragile.
The Salmon hold great significance for the Tseshaht First Nation, and for the Alberni Valley, as Les Sam explains.
We could have easily spent hours in this breathtaking location, even without any visible wildlife. But our next destination was calling: Bare Bones restaurant, known for its casual, contemporary seafood in the heart of town.
With a menu featuring local produce, it felt right to try the freshly caught salmon, which tasted incredibly fresh and required little more than a simple preparation to let its flavors shine.
Bare Bones Restaurant features locally caught and harvested produce, seen on the plate here, on its menu.
Over lunch, as I shared my own origins and travel experiences, Les turned to me and said, "I don’t need to travel; I already live in Paradise."
I couldn’t help but nod in agreement.
With our appetites satisfied, Eric and Jenna made the short trip back to their Indigenous-owned accommodation at Chim's Motel for a well-deserved rest.
Their journey into this new community, enriched by the meaningful experiences they had witnessed during this ancient and vital event.
Photo:
Tom Powell
On the deck at Chim's Motel, after a day enjoying the awe of fall in the Alberni Valley.
Enjoying some peaceful nature while taking in the fall views from their deck at the motel, Eric reflected, "Port Alberni is a community with a heart.
From the warm welcome from Naomi here at Chim's Motel to the fresh produce and the incredible journey of the fish—even spotting a bear—this place has so much to offer, and we're just getting started."
When you go
The Alberni Valley lies within unceded territory of the Tseshaht First Nation (sis sha ahtah) and Hupačasath First Nation, two of the fourteen Nations of the Nuu-cha-nulth Peoples on western Vancouver Island.
Getting here coming from Vancouver/mainland, the crossing through Georgia Strait with BC Ferries is always picturesque.
Driving from east or west (Victoria or Tofino), Port Alberni is a perfect mid-way point:
2h 45min drive from Victoria to Port Alberni, via Trans-Canada to BC-4
1h 47min drive Tofino to Port Alberni, via BC-4
Check in with Alberni Valley Tourism for a wealth of local tips to explore the area. Get more info to plan your fall visit via Alberni Valley Tourism, with this roundup of things to do in autumn in the Alberni Valley.
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