Three stars guide Huu-ay-aht Nation in preserving dark sky, culture
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Rethinking wilderness in the ancient gardens of Tla-o-qui-aht, Ahousaht First Nations
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Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation/Tofino, BC — You might think of the beaches and forests of western Vancouver Island as wilderness, but they're not.
"English is a very new language to this part of the world," says Gisele Martin, Tla-o-qui-aht Guardian, as she stands in the forest within her Tla-o-qui-aht homelands, steps from Tin Wis (Mackenzie) Beach and minutes from downtown Tofino.
"There are a lot of words in English, concepts in English that don't fit this part of the world at all. And wilderness is one of those words."
At Tsawaak Resort, on Tla-o-qui-aht homelands, you can put yourself in Martin's shoes and pause for a minute to reflect on that. Here, in this coastal paradise, is an invitation to rethink wilderness and connect to an ancient culture whose roots run deep throughout these ancient gardens.
WATCH > how to rethink wilderness at Tsawaak with Gisele Martin
It was only in the last 200 hundred years of colonial history that the word took root here. Martin offers an example.
"Years ago, Parks Canada was asking a group of Tla-o-qui-aht elders to translate signage, and one of the words they needed translated was the word wilderness.
So, this word wilderness was deliberated upon for three days. And when they came back, they said, 'the closest translation we have to this concept of wilderness is wałyuu (walth-yuu) and that means home.
'This is our home.'"
Photo:
Gisele Martin
The Tla-o-qui-aht approach to nature views it as something to protect and coexist with, not to tame.
"[Look up] the definition of wilderness: usually what comes up is it's a desolate wasteland or a wild place where humans might visit but do not live in," says Martin. "They don't take care of it, they don't garden, and they don't farm there."
Stay with Tsawaak RV Resort & Campground to unlearn and relearn a new approach on life.
Book a cabin this fall and move into a new you, starting with the words you choose.
"Words that we use and the language we speak matters. Words shape our perspective of the world," explains Martin. "Those words then shape who we are as we travel through the world and how we move through the world."
Photo:
Gisele Martin
"How we move through the world" is shaped by language, and by experiences like this.
ZenSeekers and Tsawaak RV Resort & Campground challenge you to consider:
Are the words and the ways you move through the world informed by colonial heritage?
How do you learn otherwise, or even gain the perspective to realize a new approach with more connection to the earth?
A stay at Tla-o-qui-aht-owned Tsawaak Resort has answers, and offers an experience connecting you to the healing powers of Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation ancient gardens.
Photo:
Sunseta Media
Mini-longhouse cabins offer comfort within the natural beauty of Tla-o-qui-aht lands.
Travelling to Tla-o-qiu-aht requires any responsible traveller to familiarize themselves with the Tla-o-qui-aht's ʔiisaak Pledge, which you can find here.
The guiding principle within ʔiisaak is recognition of this special place—not a wilderness, but a cherished gardens and homelands—that allows any visitor to truly connect with their surroundings, putting their arms around the biggest trees and walking away with a new charge in their soul, a natural uplift.
An ʔiisaak inspired itinerary
Here are four ways to access Tla-o-qui-aht's wałyuu, in a respectful manner, from your basecamp at Tsawaak Resort.
Hike the Big Tree Trail
Photo:
Kyler Vos
Tla-o-qui-aht Guardians maintain and tend the Big Tree Trail on Wanachus Hilthuuis (Meares Island).
For full respect of these Tla-o-qui-aht homelands never touched by a colonial hand, book in with Sir Landon James Charters for water taxi service to Meares Island and a Big Tree Trail experience. Go self-guided or ask about private guided Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks Guardian Tours (allow three or four hours in total—2km trail, part boardwalk & part hiking trail).
Rent an e-bike from Tbird Ebikes and ride the Pacific Rim trail
Photo:
Bryanna Bradley
An ebike offers an eco-friendly way to see the West Coast, along newly paved bike trails.
Meet your ebike on site at Tsawaak, then travel the new pathway between Tla-o-qui-aht/Tofino and Ucluelet. Be ready for a big bike of 80km round trip, but ebikes make it a comfortable adventure for anyone with an intermediate fitness level or more (a shorter Long Beach to Tsawaak is a beauty ride as well and under half the time).
Book ahead with your stay and simply use an ebike to get around. They rent regular bikes too.
Stroll the beach trail
Photo:
Gisele Martin
Walk beside the calm waters of Tin Wis (Mackenzie) Beach.
Wanna walk? Hit the beach trail within Tsawaak next to the Visitor Centre and when you touch sand, go left for an impressive view (as seen in the banner image of this story).
Or, for a longer walk, trek right and keep right to the end of the beach. Go across the little outflow and up onto Tonquin Trail, taking in the trail signage further educating on Tla-o-qui-aht's Waluu.
Cabin it for the full effect, booking your own mini-Longhouse.
Rainy day adventure
Photo:
Nora O'Malley
Guests bathe under one of the hot springs on an Ahous Adventures tour.
Flip the narrative on a rainy day and turn it into an adventure like no other.
Ahousaht First Nation, the neighboring nation to Tla-o-qui-aht, sharing Clayoquot Sound, will introduce you to Ahous Adventures Hot Springs Cove Tour. One word; breathtaking, on so many sensory levels.
Boardwalk through old growth, soak in the springs as the rain pelts your face, with a guide so passionate about his role in welcoming you to his wałyuu.
(Your stay at Tsawaak scores you a bonus card with $20 off your tour, and off your e-bike rental too!)
Experience the land around Tla-o-qui-aht and learn the stories of Tla-o-qui-aht stewardship to these lands for over 10,000 years, and you'll find it easy to agree with Martin when she says:
"According to those definitions of wilderness online, there's no wilderness here. It doesn't exist because we've always lived here and we've always taken care of it, and we continue to take care of it."
When you Go
Martin and Tla-o-qui-aht people ask you to "please uphold ʔiisaak, our traditional teachings, which speak to having respect for the world around us, having respect for the cycles of the planets, but also nature, natural law, practicing being observant, appreciating, and acting accordingly."
As a respectful traveler, Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks makes it easy for you, just follow these ʔiisaak how-tos.
Tswaaak RV Resort & Campground is connected in with other Indigenous-owned campgrounds, attractions and First Nation destinations you should know about. #Indigenouscoastbc brings together a series of communities along BC's West Coast, offering up an itinerary that allows any traveler to experience their way into a new self and being.
To delve deeper in to the concept of rethinking wilderness, dive into this feature about ethical travel, on the Tin Wis Resort website.
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