Immerse in whale watching, Indigenous culture in nature's home, North Vancouver Island
Gwa'dzi / Port Hardy, BC — Leaving Campbell River, traveling up into North Vancouver Island, within 20 mins you know you are somewhere special: looking into epic oceanic views from the highway that will challenge you to keep your eyes on the road. Wild salmon jumping five feet from your face, whales fully breaching before your eyes and the possibility of bears around any bend.
Wildlife is everywhere as you cruise Highway 19 North, and this is only the beginning of your epic road trip ahead. This is the destination of Port Hardy and a stay at the Kwa'lilas Hotel, home to a history going back 12,000 years.
Read on and look below to the "When you Go" section for the perfect guide on how to crack the code on this natural fall getaway.
WATCH > whale watching, Indigenous culture in nature's home, North Vancouver Island
"My wife and I were out walking the dog at Thomas Point because there had been a humpback whale and her calf hanging out there, and we went to see it," recalls Geoff Heith, a local video producer who filmed the above video for ZenSeekers.
"We didn't see the whales, but within seconds of saying "wouldn't it be cool to see a bear right now," we walked around the bend and from a distance we see a mom and her two cubs."
Book this fall and stay in nature's home; book today with the Kwa'lilas Hotel for a North Island adventure
And it's not just what you see that will blow your mind with beauty.
"The microphone they put in the water so you can hear the whales is so amazing; it adds a whole other dynamic to the tour," Comox resident Tom Salzman describes, post his whale-watching audio experience aboard Seasmoke Whale Watching.
Humpbacks, orcas, porpoises, otters, sea lions, seals-all in under a three-hour ocean experience—as you can see from this picture in the story, full breaches, tail and all—are just another day out on the Broughton Strait.
Next to all these natural connections, the other element to a North Vancouver Island getaway is the history. These lands are the homelands of the Kwakiutl, Gwa'sala and 'Nakwaxda'xw First Nations people.
You won't have to go far to appreciate this history given Kwa'lilas' lobby lays it all out via an 18-foot pictorial history wall etched in copper by artist Shain Jackson.
Head into history to better understand today, while connecting with nature like few others ever have, all by simply making a natural home with the Kwa'lilas Hotel.
When You Go
Here is how to plan your trip to North Vancouver Island, to Gwaz'di (Port Hardy, BC) within Kwakiutl, Gwa'sala and 'Nakwaxda'xw First Nations homelands.
Getting here
From Vancouver/mainland BC via ferry to Comox
3h drive to Gwaz'di/Port Hardy from Comox
Where to stay stay and support Indigenous at Kwa'lilas Hotel, about a three-hour drive from Comox
Things to do on North Vancouver Island
Link these North Vancouver Island activities together over a two- or three-night stay this fall.
Visit U'mista Cultural Centre for cultural immersion, at Alert Bay, 45min from Gwa'dzi (Port Hardy) and Kwa'lilas, find more info here.
Make a day trip to Cape Scott Park for a scene right out of the movie "The Goonies," with huge rock spiers on the beach.
To experience the U'mista Cultural Centre you can make a day trip, by staying at the Kwa'lilas Hotel and walking on the ferry to Alert Bay/Cormorant Island. Or, extend your stay on Cormorant via The Cabins at Alert Bay.
Go wildlife/whale-watching with Seasmoke Whale Watching tours with SeaSmoke Whale Watching head out into the north Pacific Ocean, sailing through Broughton Strait. The season is closed for winter but reopens in 2025.
What you will see will blow your mind: the salmon are experiencing one of their best runs, meaning all the whales and other sea life are attracted into these narrow waters given it's a buffet for them flowing through the channel between Gwa'dzi (Port Hardy) and Alert Bay/Cormorant Island, as showcased in this past ZenSeekers feature.
Dine at Kwa'lilas Ha'me Ha'me, meaing "to eat" is a new fine dining restaurant opening this fall, celebrating West Coast Indigenous cuisine.
Wander in nature at Little Huson Caves Regional Park
Take in a sunrise or a sunset or chill any time at Storey's beach - "the best beach that nobody goes to." (Insider tip, when looking at the small island across from the parking lot, you will think you see a sandy beach, that is eons of shells from the Kwaguil Kwakiutl First Nation piling up after too many feasts to count.
Extend your trip The Kwa'lilas is also the launching pad up BC's central and northern coastline via BC Ferries to destinations including Bella Bella, home to Yuwala Adventures into the Great Bear Rainforest. Connect Kwa'lilas Hotel and Yuwala Adventures together for an #Indigneouscoastbc experience few have ever accomplished.
Learn about West Coast Indigenous history Take time to learn and understand what has happened here, and by visiting, know that your money is righting wrongs.
Mid-1960's, the Kwakiutl Nation saw a rush of immigrants arrive after Canadian Government removed Gwa'sala and 'Nakwaxda'xw First Nations people from their lands.
While they were lured from their villages to go to what was billed as a "celebration" on Kwakiutl land, the Canadian Government went in and burned down all their villages.
Mid-90's, Gwa'sala and 'Nakwaxda'xw Nations Chief and Council's with some federal relocation settlement funds, purchased the old Port Hardy Inn, converting it into what it is now: a very comfortable luxury home for travellers at the Kwa'lilas Hotel.
Opening this fall, is the Gwa'sala- 'Nakwaxda'xw Gukwdzi Big House, another investment Chief & Council have made with the relocation funding, with the intentions to one day move back to their traditional homelands. The Big House is a healing centre, and cultural revitalization venue, seating over 1,200 people— watch for tours and experiences coming in 2025!
Head to Kwa'lilas now spending your tourism dollars here goes towards the reestablishment of a civilization.
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