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This lesser-known Vancouver Island paradise builds connection via divide
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Bamfield, BC; Huu-ay-aht First Nations Upon first arriving in Bamfield, you'll notice the divide right away. Not political, but geographical.
"People will book our rooms or a table in our restaurant, and given we are on the west side of the village, you have to take a boat or the water taxi over here," explains Gill Bradley, the owner of Flora's at the Bamfield Inn.
Perched on the western edge of Vancouver Island, an inlet of the Pacific Ocean splits the town in two, making it one of the world's most unique communities.
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"It adds to the experience, you can't just drive in here," says Bradley. "You have to make plans.
There are about 70 people who live here full-time on the West side."
Make a plan to visit Bamfield this summer
Bamfield is known among hikers and nature lovers as one of two trail heads for the world-famous West Coast Trail.
It ranks at the top of the list for premier hiking and some of the best beaches on the planet.
Brady's Beach is one of several along the Bamfield coast.
Last year, the Huu-ay-aht First Nations and the provincial government connected Bamfield—within Huu-ay-aht First Nations homelands—to the world in a much smoother way, via a new chip-sealed road.
Getting to this seaside town is now around an hour's drive to the West Coast of Vancouver Island out of Port Alberni.
Which means accessing some of the best hiking and backcountry camping destinations in Canada, given its connection to Cape Beale and Keeha Beach, just got better.
Or perhaps your Bamfield experience includes easy walks along West Bamfield's boardwalk, connecting with nature and Huu-ay-aht First Nations culture.
"Last summer we had a few humpback whales come right into the harbour, and our guests were having dinner on the patio while whale watching," says Bradley, who's been coming here since she was a kid.
It's clear she loves this place. So much so that, along with her dad and sister, she recently bought the Bamfield Inn/Flora's Restaurant.
Now 34 and a permanent Bamfield resident, her passion is evident in the tips she offers to visitors to make the most of your trip.
Local tips for visiting Bamfield
with Gill Bradley and Marnie McAughtrie
Gill Bradley's three tips:
- "Try to give yourself a couple extra hours on the drive out here. The drive in from Port Alberni is so beautiful, great little rivers and lakes. The trip up adds to the whole experience." (Plan your travels with info from the Visit Bamfield website).
Driving from Port Alberni to Bamfield on the new chip-sealed road makes for easy cruising and awesome adventures along the way.
- "Give yourself time to walk the boardwalk that spans West Bamfield, check out the history plaques along the way."
The boardwalk around Bamfield's inlet offers beauty views and history connections.
- Next to lunch or dinner at Flora's, check out The Bamfield Wreckage, another notable restaurant in town. Going on four years, with a really cool location and upbeat vibe. About a five-min walk from Flora's (you can make a great little patio crawl between the two of them).
Four years in, the Bamfield Wreckage adds colour to the local food scene.
Another local who has tips to Bamfield is Marnie McAughtrie, proprietor of the Bamfield Mercantile & Marine and the president of the Bamfield Chamber of Commerce.
McAughtrie and her husband moved here almost 10 years ago out of Victoria to take over this "something for everyone shop" servicing all those travelers who've moored here from various ports of call along the west coast.
"This is a place where you are surrounded by nature in its rawest forms," McAughtrie explains. Here, remote living means visitors get a glimpse into times that are about as opposite as you can get from urban ones.
This informs McAughtrie's tips, which are practical for the place: she suggests packing rain gear with those hiking boots, given the weather is changeable in all seasons and trails are rugged.
When you go
Drive through Port Alberni and look for the Bamfield signs, the drive is well-marked on this freshly chip-sealed road.
Whether it's a choice to stay on the west or the east side of Bamfield, expect easy access to a wide range of hikes, or perhaps it's time to unwind at Brady's Beach (west) or the one-of-a-kind Pachena Bay Beach (east), where the West Coast Trail starts.
Where to stay
West side
Flora's Stays at the Bamfield Inn *as featured in this story
East side:
Hacas Inn
Upnit Lodge
The Visit Bamfield website provides the full roster on where to stay.
Here's a map to guide you in your Bamfield adventures.
More food options
Malsit Public House or The Market
For more on hiking Bamfield, have a read of this past ZenSeekers story.
Or perhaps you are more into celestial displays? Bamfield is one of Canada's top dark sky destinations and is home to its "Three Star" Festival in the fall.
A cool tip for those seeking more connection to Huu-ay-aht First Nations are invited to stop by their Government House where you can view cultural belongings & historical elements of interest.
Let us know what you find, be sure to include the #visitbamfield and #zenseekers hashtags in your social media so we might be able to feature you.
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